Day 27 - Margaret River to Pemberton

Alright I take it back, there's a lot more to this place than wineries. A trip through new and old forests.

Quick Stats

• 4 hours on bike
• 238 km
• 9576 km total

Slow start to the morning as the ground dries up, its looking to be a nice day as despite the 11°C on the needle the sun is warm.

I go for a wander through the Margaret River township. Sitting central to the region and not far from the river of its namesake. Margs seems like a pretty relaxed hub for the region. Coffee is good.

I'm not aiming to go far today, with lots to see nearby. The Caves Road hugs the coast running parallel to the main highway, I did the first half yesterday and it was spectacularly scenic, so I plan to do the second half.

I pack up and head off. The road is a twisty dream, but the ground is wet and slippery and there's wildlife everywhere. As if to prove the point, a massive Western Grey kangaroo jumps from the shrubs to greet me a few metres away.

Before continue down the Caves Road, I duck out to Prevally to see the mouth of ole Marg.

There's a massive swell and I'm told the water isn't that cold if you avoid the outflow from the river. For once, I decide it's not worth finding out for myself.

The sun is still out and warm, but the South West in winter is temperamental. I leave the river and head south along the winding roads.

As its namesake implies, Caves Road has about a dozen other varied caving experiences along the way. I duck into the Visitor Centre of the first one and quickly realise the scale of each of them. Although each is its own $20 to $40 entry fee just to see anything past the information booth.

Between the magical coastline, the caves, the forests, I realise this area has more worth seeing than I can give it time this trip. Easily accessible from Perth, I resolve to return and explore it another time.

I figure I'll at least bookend the Cape to Cape and head for the Leeuwin lighthouse at the far end and pick out a few brown signs along the way.

The first is Boranup forest, the first stand of Karri trees I've seen this trip. Karri are some of the largest trees in the world by both height and (more often) volume.

They're endemic to South West Australia and while these are big, I'm told they get much bigger where I'm headed.

A bit further down, the South West's mood changes, the sky darkens, and a lovely drizzling rain starts as I arrive at Hamelin Bay.

Onward to find coffee two and a roof over my head, I reach the southern terminus of Caves Road and pull into Augusta. Originally a tourist town, the place has transitioned to a townsized retirement village. I have some gnocchi and a warm drink and watch the grey skies start to calm.

I head down to Cape Leeuwin, its $7.50 to see the lighthouse, $2.50 more than the last one... I begrudgingly pay (at some point there is going to be a rant, not today).

The lighthouse sits on the most South Westerly point of Australia. The islands off here are known to have an eclectic mix of New Zealand fur seals, penguins and Australian sea lions.

And right out there somewhere is where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet. With the antartic currents flowing one way and the warmer waters from Africa flowing the other.

Anyway, what this means for me is if the water was going to be cold this morning, its going to be a hell of a lot colder from here on.

Moving again, I've set my end destination for tonight at Pemberton. Its a mere 130 km as the crow flies from where I started, but its still progress.

Not far out of Augusta, I cross the Blackwood River and the landscape rapidly changes. The moist forests and low lying heath give way to drier timber. Suits me, the rain as stopped and the blacktop isn't slippery for the first time.

Onward to Pemberton. I pull up a little short to checkout Beedulup Falls. This trip has had plenty of variety, but no waterfalls yet. So there's that. The National Park entry fee is $8 (not going to rant yet...).

The mighty Bibbulmun Track crosses through here. Its a one thousand kilometre hiking track that stretches from Albany all the way to the Perth Hills. I've hiked the Northern End before, but I never envisioned the amount of nature it could encompass further south.

An information panel tells me this was nearly the home of the Rajneeshee Movement Cult.

I head off to check into my motel. A quick change and I go for a run to checkout the Gloucester Tree. A massive Karri tree with a ladder allowing you to climb it.

I'm pretty excited for this, until I get to the base.

They've closed... the tree... for maintenance?

And indeed all three climbable trees have been closed for maintenance at the same time. Suspicious.

The tallest of the climbing trees, the Bicentennial, is 62 metres and estimated at 500 years old. The tallest tree in Europe is actually a Karri tree, planted in 1895 in Valles de Canas, Portugal it is around 73 metres (although much narrower) high. The tallest known is 77 metres and not far from here.

Oh well, I guess I'll just go for a jog through and checkout this ancient forest. I am in awe of the size and number of trees. There's a chainsaw buzzing in the distance, so I decide some music is in order.

The next time you find yourself walking or running through nature, but the noise of the world is invading, put on Caspian's Hymn for the Greatest Generation. You'll be instantly emersed and in awe of your surroundings, for seven minutes at least.

Absolute Bliss.