Day 33 - Ceduna to Port Lincoln

Day 33 - Ceduna to Port Lincoln

My insane luck with weather is derailed today, but I try make the best of exploring the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula.

Quick Stats

  • 5 hours on bike
  • 440 km
  • 12247 km total

The weather yesterday afternoon was about as ideal as you can possibly get for the south coast in August. Waking up this morning to overcast with a Southerly wind, my luck appears ended and I think the universe is telling me something.

Alas, I pack up and am on the road to head for Streaky Bay. The West Coast of the Eyre Peninsula is known for two conflicting traits - massive shallow and calm bays and wild open coastline with amazing surf beaches.

Streaky Bay is the former, and I arrive after an hours ride. The weather is souring, so I take a quick look at the calm foreshore and little fishing boats and head for nearest cafe.

The weather isn't inclement, but its far from inviting, Venus Bay is next for a quick look around. Another sheltered little town, unsurprising with how fierce the exposed coastline is along here.

South head of the bay, the cliffs of the north head are imposing in the distance

Ever since the Bunda Cliffs at the border, there's been warning signs about the loose edges on coastline cliffs. A memorial to someone who died here after the cliff collapsed really sells the warnings.

I get an eclair from the bakery and head on.

I forgot to get fuel leaving Streaky Bay and I've got 80 km to travel with 90 km range. I decide to detour a couple of attractions (the weather isn't exciting me) and head for Elliston. There's another Great Ocean Road here, so I decide to do the loop of unsealed road.

Another peaceful fishing town on a bay, Elliston is also known for some of the few easily accessible surf beaches. The motel owner last night told me of his favourite spot called Lock's Well. He laughed at me when I asked about swimming there. Evidently it's a known shark breeding area and only the craziest surfers go here.

Onwards to Coffin Bay. Another sheltered bay, although leagues bigger than al the others. The bay is named after Isaac Coffin, a friend of Matthew Flinders. There's a magic looking national park and an "Isaac Lookout" at the end, but the weather is rubbish, so I decide instead to duck in for a late lunch.

Coffin Bay Lookout

Coffin Bay oysters are a pretty big deal, the farms line the bay and the Oyster HQ is more than willing to serve fresh oysters. You can even shuck them yourself.

I had hoped to spend the night in Coffin Bay and explore the National Park in the morning, but I'm unconvinced the weather is improving and there's not much accommodation around. I settle for a motel room in the nearby Port Lincoln, the main hub for the Eyre Peninsula.

More oysters for dinner

I think the weather is telling me it's time to stop the detours and be on my way home. My body is also telling me it's almost had enough.

I've got one or two detours left to make before I beeline home.